Summer moment

My friend gave me his JS industries surfboard. Wow! Recent surfboard was extremely good to ride the waves! I didn't know that.

The biggest thing

I started surfing(short-boarding) when I was in college, 1996. Surfing is very difficult, but it makes me feel so good. And the biggest thing for me, it still brings me new friends! Today was small condition, but I enjoyed with new friends.

Relax surfing

I went ride the long-board. I started long-boarding about ten years ago. But I'm not very good at it. Just for fun! 

Today's lunch at Terasawa.(てらさわ) It's a good place to eat, like grilled chicken, poke and so on.

Cloudy day surf

Yesterday was a cloudy day but we had fun waves. The rainy season has started in Japan.

Hamamatsu surf trip

The other day, we went to Hamamatsu in Shizuoka pref to surf and eat the good food. But the weather was bad.

This was the dumpling meal at Fukumitsu.(福みつ) It's fried until very crispy. So yum, but I was too full to move!

Soul snack of Hamamatsu. It's Unagi-pie(eel-pie).

We stayed in the cheap hotel. It cost $35 a night. 

Perhaps, this building was the post office in past days. But it was enough to sleep.

Next day, the waves were generally OK. We had a fun time. See the next surf trip!

 

Early summer day

I thought that summer might already have come. We had a lot of fun waves in IRAGO area.

秋波 / Autumn swells

We went surfing. Low-pressure swells hit Irago Coast. I think swells were almost head high at 7am.

  

My friend's board(7'6) that sold for ¥6,300(like $80) at a secondhand store. But this was a comfortable board to ride on. It means that the most important thing is "the Riding quality", not "the Price".  

伊豆白浜

 Overload? No! It's the same as always.

 Surfer dudes. 愛すべきろくでなし連中。

Surf & NAFF wetsuits

Yesterday I went surfing with my friend. In Irago area, the wave was small but we had a relaxing time.
On our way to home, we visited my good friend who is running a wetsuit fabrication factory.

He has been making wetsuits for surfers and triathletes for 5 years. Brand name is "NAFF wetsuits". It is functional, durable, and simple. And yes! "HAND MADE IN JAPAN"!

My friend has ordered a new semi-dry suit...

四国Camp&Surfまとめ（５月３日〜５日）

夜中12時に名古屋を出発し、途中津に友達を迎えにいき、1時半頃芸濃から伊勢自動車道へ

 懸念された渋滞もなく朝7時半頃、桂浜到着。「日本の夜明けぜよ！」って何回もバカみたいに４人で言っていました。期間限定で龍馬の隣に足場が作ってあり、隣から龍馬さんを拝めました。

もの凄い綺麗な景色でした。緑色がめちゃくちゃ濃い！でも天気が悪い！

サーフポイント入野松原前のキャンプ場に10時頃到着。すでに3組が先に乗り込んでおり、満喫中でございました。

 早速波チェック。腹〜胸サイズで風がサイド寄りだったかな。まあなんとかできる感じ。

その後雨がドシャ降ってきたので、BBQは中止となり、各グループにてそれぞれ夕食。

たまたま入った寿司一さん、旬の鰹たたきや刺身が最高でした。

 翌朝は晴れて、セット胸サイズほぼ無風、結構遊べましたよ。人もそんなにいないし。

 そんで四万十川河口など観光しつつ昼飯はラーメン。台湾ラーメンに味噌が入った感じのオリジナルモノらしく、かなりおいしかったです。

 夕食は念願のBBQもできて、大騒ぎをしながら夜は更けていきました。

 帰りの瀬戸大橋。渋滞で13時間かかりましたが、GWだからしょうがないですね。

10年前にも車で四万十川へ行きましたが、高速道路がのびたくらいでほとんど何も変わらず安心しました。日本には本当に綺麗な場所がまだまだあるんですな！

四国 Camp&Surf

GWなので、四国、四万十川河口目指して出発。

ロングボードとチャリを積み込んで新緑の四万十川でCampをしてきます。

一緒にいくのは大学からのクサレ友達3名。天気が良いといいです。